Rear Shocks
New and used rear shocks for full-suspension mountain bikes from sellers across the UK. Air shocks, coil shocks and replacement parts from Fox, RockShox, Cane Creek, EXT, DVO and more. Check the eye-to-eye length and stroke your frame takes before you buy, as both have to match exactly.
What does a rear shock actually do?
The rear shock controls how the back end of your full-suspension bike responds to impacts, braking forces and pedalling input. Getting the right shock for your frame and riding style makes a bigger difference than most people expect, which is why it pays to work out what your frame needs before you start browsing listings.
What size shock does my frame take?
Rear shocks are defined by two measurements. Eye-to-eye (E2E) is the total length of the shock from the centre of one mounting eye to the other, measured with the shock fully extended, with common sizes of 185mm, 190mm, 200mm, 210mm, 230mm and 250mm. Stroke is how far the shock compresses, and this, combined with the frame's leverage ratio, determines rear wheel travel. These measurements must match your frame exactly: a shock with the wrong E2E won't physically fit, and the wrong stroke will give you too much or too little travel, so check your frame manufacturer's specs before buying.
Trunnion or eyelet mount?
Most older frames use standard eyelet mounts, with a bearing or bushing at each end. Trunnion mount shocks bolt through the shock body itself and are shorter for the same stroke length, letting frame designers run longer travel in compact frames. Your frame dictates which you need — they're not interchangeable.
Air shock or coil?
Both use the same style of damper cartridge to control compression and rebound; the difference is the spring. Air shocks are lighter and adjustable with a shock pump, while coil shocks use a metal spring chosen by rate. Frame design and riding style decide which suits you better, and plenty of frames will take either.
What should I check on a used rear shock?
On air shocks, check the shaft for scratches or scoring, as a damaged shaft destroys seals and causes air loss. Cycle the shock slowly by hand: it should compress and rebound smoothly with no dead spots, harsh clicks or metallic sounds. Bushings and reducers wear over time and cause knocking, so check the mounting hardware is included and not wallowed out — replacements are cheap and widely available as shock parts and spares.
How do I test for air loss?
For air shocks, set the pressure and leave it overnight. Losing more than 5–10 psi overnight means the seals need replacing. It's worth agreeing this test with the seller where you can, because it is the one fault a quick look in a car park won't reveal.