Mountain Bikes

Which type of mountain bike do you need?

Mountain bikes split into categories based on suspension travel and intended use. Picking the right type for how you actually ride matters more than brand or spec.

Trail bikes (120–150mm)

Trail bikes are the all-rounders. Enough travel to handle rough descents, efficient enough to pedal all day. If you ride a mix of everything — trail centres, local loops, the odd uplift day — this is where most riders should look. Popular models include the Specialized Stumpjumper, Santa Cruz Hightower, and YT Jeffsy.

Enduro bikes (150–180mm)

Enduro bikes prioritise descending performance while still being pedallable. Built for steep, rough terrain, bike parks, and enduro racing. More bike than most people need, but if your trails are genuinely gnarly, they're worth it. Think Santa Cruz Nomad, Commencal Meta AM, Nukeproof Mega.

XC bikes (80–120mm)

Cross-country bikes are the lightest and fastest mountain bikes. Built for racing and fast trail riding with steep geometry and minimal travel. The newer "downcountry" models (110–120mm) are more versatile than pure race XC. Specialized Epic, Scott Spark, Trek Supercaliber.

Downhill bikes (200mm+)

Downhill bikes are gravity-only machines — dual-crown forks, 200mm of travel, shuttle or uplift required. Purpose-built for bike parks and DH racing. If you don't ride uplift regularly, you don't need one.

Hardtails

Hardtail mountain bikes have front suspension only. Lighter, simpler, cheaper to maintain, and the best value way into mountain biking. Modern trail hardtails with 130–140mm forks handle surprisingly rough terrain. They also make you a better rider.

Dirt jump bikes

DJ bikes are single-speed hardtails built for jumping, pump tracks, and street riding. Simple, tough, and fun. 26" wheels, short-travel forks, one brake.

Fat bikes

Fat bikes run 3.8"+ tyres for snow, sand, and mud. Great for UK winter riding when trails are saturated. A niche choice but brilliant at what they do.

Buying a used mountain bike

Suspension service history is the single most important thing to check. A fork or shock that hasn't been serviced will need work — budget £100–200 for it. After that, check bearings (headset, BB, pivots), frame condition around high-stress areas, and brake pad life. The best deals are on 2–3 year old bikes where the original owner has taken the depreciation hit but the bike still has plenty of life left. Browse MTB frames if you're building up, or components for upgrades.