Brake Pads
Used road brake pads are the primary consumable in your braking system, from resin and sintered disc compounds to rim pads from Swiss Stop, Kool Stop and Shimano that vary dramatically in wet-weather performance. Replacing pads is the cheapest and most impactful brake maintenance you can do. Carry a spare set on long rides — worn pads on a mountain descent is genuinely dangerous.
Resin or sintered disc pads?
Road disc brake pads come in resin (organic) and sintered (metallic) compounds. Resin is quieter with better initial bite; sintered lasts longer in wet and gritty conditions but is noisier and wears rotors faster. Bed in any new pads properly — 20-30 progressive stops from moderate speed.
Which disc pads fit my callipers?
Shimano road disc brakes use L-series pads: L03A (resin with cooling fins — best all-round), L05A (resin, previous generation) and K03S (resin, budget), with sintered/metallic options in the Shimano D-series and from aftermarket makers. SRAM road pads are specific to their callipers, organic being the standard compound, and Campagnolo disc pads fit their own callipers only. Aftermarket pads from SwissStop, Galfer and Jagwire offer different compounds and price points.
Which rim pads brake best in the wet?
Swiss Stop FlashPro BXP is the benchmark and transforms wet-weather braking on aluminium rims. Shimano R55C4 is the OEM standard on Dura-Ace and Ultegra callipers — decent dry performance, average in the wet. Kool Stop Dura2 offers excellent wet braking and compound longevity. Shimano cartridge-style pads slide into holders, which makes replacement quick.
Do carbon rims need carbon-specific pads?
Yes — for carbon rims you must use carbon-specific pads such as Swiss Stop FlashPro Black Prince or the carbon version of Shimano R55C4, because standard pads will destroy a carbon braking surface. Cork compound pads exist for carbon rims on older bikes.
What should I check buying used pads?
Brake pads are cheap enough that buying new is usually sensible, but used pads with significant life remaining (3mm+ of pad material) are perfectly functional. Check for contamination: pads exposed to oil, spray lubricant or disc brake fluid should be discarded, as contamination causes squealing and dramatically reduced stopping power that cannot be fixed. Inspect the backing plate for cracks on disc pads, and look for the wear indicator grooves on rim pads — once the grooves disappear, the pad is spent.