Skip to main content
Cranxs Logo
Category

Wheels & Tyres

Used mountain bike wheels, tyres and wheel components from UK sellers, alongside new stock. Complete wheelsets, individual rims, hubs, tyres, tubes, sealant and tubeless setup kit — filter by wheel size, brand and condition.

Buying Guide

What difference do wheels and tyres make?

Wheels and tyres are the most impactful upgrade you can make after suspension. They affect grip, rolling speed, weight, stiffness and how the bike feels on every type of terrain. A lighter, stiffer wheelset with quality tyres transforms a bike more noticeably than almost any other component upgrade.

Which wheel size should you buy?

Three wheel sizes exist in modern mountain biking. 29" (700c) rolls faster over obstacles and carries momentum — now dominant on trail, XC and enduro bikes. 27.5" (650b) is more agile, accelerates quicker, and suits shorter riders and bikes with tighter rear-end geometry — still common on DH, dirt jump and some enduro bikes. 26" is functionally dead on new bikes but still runs on older frames, dirt jumpers and some kids' bikes, while mullet setups (29" front, 27.5" rear) combine the rollover of a big front wheel with the agility of a smaller rear.

Tubeless or tubes?

Tubeless is the standard for mountain biking. Running tyres without inner tubes — sealed with rim tape, tubeless valves and liquid sealant — gives lower rolling resistance, better grip at lower pressures, and self-sealing puncture protection. The setup takes 20 minutes and the components (tape, valves, sealant) cost under £25, so on a trail bike still running tubes it's the single best value upgrade available.

What should you check buying used wheels?

Used wheelsets are excellent value, but rims take the most abuse — check for dents, cracks around spoke holes, and excessive brake track wear on rim brake wheels. Hubs last years with bearing replacements, and spokes rarely fail unless the wheel has been crashed. Spin the wheel and check for trueness: a slight wobble is an easy fix, a badly buckled rim is scrap. Always confirm hub spacing and freehub type match your frame and cassette, and check whether the skewers are included.