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Helmets

Used road cycling helmets range from lightweight aero shells to full-coverage models and heavily vented designs for hot days. Cranxs connects you with sellers offering road helmets, including MIPS-equipped models and sleek, performance-oriented shapes. With a helmet more than any other piece of kit, history matters as much as fit.

Buying Guide

Which safety standard should a road helmet meet?

Any helmet sold for cycling in the UK carries the EN 1078 mark, usually printed on a label inside the shell alongside the size and the date of manufacture. That label is the first thing to look for in a listing photograph. If a seller cannot show it, walk away — an unmarked shell is not a helmet you can rely on.

What does MIPS actually do?

MIPS is a low-friction layer sitting between the liner and your head that lets the shell rotate a few millimetres independently of your skull during an angled impact, reducing the rotational forces transmitted to the brain. Most crashes are angled rather than dead-on, which is why the technology has spread across the market. It adds a little weight and cost, and several brands now offer their own equivalents under different names.

Aero, vented or full coverage?

Lightweight aero designs use a smoother, more closed shell with fewer vents, which is quicker on flat, fast rides. Full-coverage models extend lower at the back and sides for extra protection. Maximum ventilation designs trade a little of both for airflow, and they are the ones you will want on a summer climb. All three appear constantly second-hand, and it is worth thinking about the rest of your setup at the same time — helmet fit interacts with eyewear, and arm and temple placement can be the difference between comfortable and irritating.

How do I get the fit right?

Measure your head circumference in centimetres, just above the eyebrows, and match it to the manufacturer's stated range rather than trusting S/M/L, which varies wildly between brands. The helmet should sit level, roughly two fingers above the brow, and stay put when you shake your head with the straps undone — the retention cradle at the rear does the holding, not the chin strap. Straps should form a V just below each ear, with about a finger's width of slack under the chin.

What should I check buying used?

Only buy a helmet with a known history. The EPS foam liner is single-use: a helmet that has taken an impact must be replaced even if the outside looks untouched, so ask the seller directly whether it has ever been crashed or dropped hard. Press around the liner looking for hairline cracks, compressed patches, or foam separating from the shell. Check the date of manufacture on the internal label — most makers advise replacement around five years on. Then check the practical parts: straps not frayed, buckle clicking firmly, cradle dial turning smoothly, pads present. Sellers clearing out road kit often list gloves and reflective gear in the same batch, which can be worth bundling on postage.