Forks
Used road bike forks from UK sellers, listed with the fitment details that decide compatibility. A replacement fork needs to match your frame's steerer tube diameter (1-1/8" straight, 1-1/8" to 1-1/2" tapered, or 1-1/4") and brake mount standard.
Why are road forks carbon?
Road forks are almost universally carbon fibre, even on aluminium frames: a carbon fork saves 200-400g over steel and absorbs road vibration. Replacement forks sit alongside the rest of the road components on the site.
Does fork rake change the steering?
Fork rake (offset) determines steering characteristics: shorter rake gives quicker steering, longer rake is more stable. Check the rake figure against the fork you're replacing.
Which steerer standard do I need?
1-1/8" straight steerers appear on older and some current frames. 1-1/8" to 1-1/2" tapered is the modern standard — stiffer head tube junction, wider bearing at the bottom. 1-1/4" straight is used by some brands (Trek, Cannondale). The steerer must match your frame's head tube and headset, and this isn't adjustable. Steerer length on a new fork is typically long and cut to fit your frame during installation, so used forks have already been cut — verify the steerer is long enough for your frame's stack height plus spacers.
Will it fit my brakes?
Rim brake forks have a single hole through the fork crown for a bolt-through calliper. Disc brake forks have flat-mount tabs on the back of the fork leg, specific to 140mm or 160mm rotors (adapters can upsize), and some older disc forks use post mount. You cannot add disc mounts to a rim brake fork or vice versa — the fork must match your brake system, axle included: thru-axle forks use a 12x100mm standard with a removable axle, while quick-release forks use 9x100mm with a skewer. Matching levers are listed in shifters.
What should I check buying used?
Carbon forks are safety-critical, so inspect carefully. Check for cracks around the steerer/crown junction (the highest stress point), the dropout areas, and where the brake calliper mounts. Inspect the steerer for damage from headset bearing pressure — cracks or deformation at the lower bearing seat — and check it hasn't been scored by a star nut or compression plug installation. Measure the steerer length, since too short is useless and you can't extend a cut steerer, and verify the thru-axle thread condition on disc forks.