Cranksets
Used road cranksets from Shimano, SRAM, Campagnolo, Rotor and Praxis, listed by sellers across the UK. 2x and 1x drivetrains, 50/34 compact through to 53/39 standard chainring combinations, including power meter-ready and direct-mount options. Check your bottom bracket shell before you commit.
What decides whether a crankset fits?
The crankset is where your power meets the drivetrain, and three things decide whether a given one will work for you: chainring size, crank length and bottom bracket compatibility. Get the wrong one and it won't fit your frame, so work through all three before buying rather than matching on brand alone.
Compact, standard or 1x?
Standard 53/39 suits racers who can push big gears. Compact 50/34 is for the rest of us and is the most popular road setup. Semi-compact 52/36 splits the difference. 1x setups, running a 40-46T ring with a wide-range cassette, are growing, especially on gravel-road crossover builds. Match the chainring count to your shifters — a 2x lever and a 1x crank is a compromise.
What crank length should I run?
170mm, 172.5mm and 175mm are the common sizes. Shorter cranks of 165-170mm suit riders under 5'8", or those wanting a higher cadence with less hip impingement. Don't assume your current length is correct — a bike fit can reveal a lot, and the arms also set the stance for your pedals.
Which bottom bracket standard do I need?
Shimano Hollowtech II uses 24mm spindles with external cups. SRAM DUB uses a 28.99mm spindle and works with BSA, PF30, BB386 and T47 shells via adapters. Campagnolo Ultra-Torque uses a 25mm hirth-joint spindle. Check your frame's BB shell before buying, as this is where most used crankset purchases go wrong.
Can I add a power meter later?
Many modern cranksets accept spider-based or spindle-based power meters. Shimano's own power meter fits Dura-Ace and Ultegra. SRAM AXS cranksets take Quarq DZero spiders. Standalone options such as Stages and 4iiii bond to the crank arm directly, which keeps your options open if you buy a non-power crank now.
What should I check buying used?
Check the chainring teeth for shark-finning — worn teeth skip under load. Spin the spindle to check for bearing play. Scratches on crank arms are cosmetic. Look at the spider interface for cracks, especially on carbon cranks, and treat that inspection as standard for any used road components.