
Brake Rotors
Disc brake rotors are the wear surface your pads grip. Road rotors are typically 140mm (rear) and 160mm (front) — lighter and more aerodynamic than MTB sizes. Shimano's Ice Tech and RT-CL series dominate. SRAM Centerline and Paceline are the equivalents. Rotor construction (one-piece vs two-piece floating) affects heat management on long descents. Centre Lock is the standard road mounting system; 6-bolt appears on some frames and third-party options. Rotors are consumables — they wear thin and need replacing.
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Road Rotor Buying Guide
Size Selection
140mm is the standard road rear rotor — light and sufficient for most riders. 160mm front provides more stopping power for heavier riders, loaded touring, or steep descents. Some riders run 160mm front and rear for maximum braking. Larger rotors offer more leverage and better heat dissipation but add weight and can affect aerodynamics. For flat criterium racing, 140mm front and rear is fine. For alpine descents or riders over 85kg, 160mm front is recommended.
Construction Types
One-piece stamped rotors are cheapest — they work but can warp from heat on long descents. Two-piece rotors (Shimano RT-CL800, RT-CL900) use an alloy carrier with a steel braking surface — better heat management and lighter. Ice Tech rotors sandwich an aluminium heat-dissipation layer between steel braking surfaces — the best heat management available and essential for mountain descents. SRAM Paceline rotors use a similar two-piece design. Hope and Galfer make high-performance third-party options.
Mounting: Centre Lock vs 6-Bolt
Centre Lock uses a splined interface and lockring — faster to install and remove, and the standard on most road hubs. 6-bolt uses six Torx bolts and is more common on MTB and budget road hubs. Adaptors exist to run 6-bolt rotors on Centre Lock hubs (but not the reverse). When buying rotors, verify which mounting standard your hubs use. Centre Lock lockrings come in external (Shimano standard) and internal types — check which your hub requires.
Buying Used Rotors
Check minimum thickness — it's stamped on the rotor (typically 1.5mm). Measure with callipers at several points around the disc. Check for warping by spinning the wheel and watching for disc rub against the pads. Light warping can be straightened with a rotor truing tool; severe warping means replacement. Inspect the braking surface for deep scoring — light surface marks are normal, deep grooves indicate contaminated pads have been used. Never use rotors contaminated with oil — they'll never brake cleanly again.


















