Suspension Forks

How much fork travel do I need?

Travel is the total distance the fork can compress. More travel absorbs bigger hits but adds weight and raises the front end, so match travel to how you actually ride rather than to the biggest number available. 100–120mm is cross-country: light, efficient and fast on smooth singletrack. 130–150mm is trail, the UK all-rounder that handles roots, rocks and the odd bike park visit. 160–170mm is enduro, built for sustained rough descents while still being rideable uphill. 180–200mm covers downhill and freeride, for maximum control at speed on the roughest terrain.

What stanchion diameter should I look for?

Thicker stanchions mean a stiffer fork that tracks better through rough sections. 32mm is XC territory — light, but flexy under hard braking. 34–35mm is the trail standard, with good all-round stiffness. 36–38mm is enduro and gravity, noticeably more precise on steep, rough terrain. If low weight matters more to you than travel, rigid forks sidestep the question entirely.

Which damper is worth paying for?

The damper controls how quickly the fork compresses and rebounds. Budget forks use open-bath dampers, which work fine for casual riding but fade on long descents, while higher-end forks use sealed cartridge dampers. Fox GRIP / GRIP2: GRIP is solid for trail, and GRIP2 adds independent high and low-speed compression and rebound — the gold standard for tuneability. RockShox Charger 2 / 3: the DebonAir spring platform paired with a sealed damper, with Charger 3 improving small-bump sensitivity significantly. DVO OTT: Off The Top technology adjusts initial stroke sensitivity independently of main spring pressure, which suits lighter riders.

What should I check on a used fork?

The stanchions are the single most important check: look for scratches, pitting or marks in the coating. Light surface scratches are cosmetic, but anything you can feel with a fingernail will chew through seals and cause oil leaks. For bushing play, hold the front brake, grab the fork lowers and push forward and back — any clunking or movement means the bushings are worn. Compress the fork slowly to judge damper feel; it should be smooth with consistent resistance, and harsh spots, clunking or a lack of damping suggests the damper needs a service or rebuild. Check where the stanchions enter the crown too, as creaking from the crown-steerer unit (CSU) on a Fox fork is a known issue that requires a CSU press or replacement.

Is a used fork a worthwhile upgrade?

A suspension fork is the most impactful single upgrade on a mountain bike. Moving from a basic coil fork to a proper air-sprung unit with decent damping changes how the bike handles, how fast you can ride rough terrain, and how your arms and shoulders feel after a long ride. If a fork you like needs attention before it's ready, seals, bushings and service parts are covered by fork parts and spares.