Brake Rotors
Used MTB brake rotors from UK sellers, in sizes from 140mm to 220mm and in both floating and fixed designs. Listings cover Shimano, SRAM, Hope, Galfer, SwissStop and more. Match the rotor mount type — 6-bolt or centerlock — and the size to your wheels and frame.
Does a bigger rotor mean more braking power?
The rotor is the friction surface your brake pads clamp against, so rotor size directly affects braking power — a larger rotor gives the caliper more leverage and dissipates heat better. The cost is more weight and slightly more drag. Getting the right size, mount type and design affects both performance and safety.
What size rotor do I need?
Common MTB rotor sizes are 160mm (XC front, trail rear), 180mm (trail front, enduro rear), 200mm (enduro front, DH rear), 203mm (DH front) and 220mm (DH/e-MTB front, for maximum heat capacity). For most trail riders, 180mm front and 160mm rear is the sweet spot. Enduro and DH riders typically run 200mm+ front and 180mm+ rear.
6-bolt or centerlock?
Two rotor mounting standards exist. 6-bolt uses six T25 Torx bolts to attach the rotor to the hub, and it is the most common standard, used by most hub manufacturers. Centerlock, Shimano's system, uses a splined interface and a single lockring, like a cassette — faster to install and arguably more secure, but it limits you to centerlock-compatible hubs. Adapters exist to run 6-bolt rotors on centerlock hubs, but not the other way around.
Floating or fixed rotors?
Fixed rotors are a single piece of steel: simple, cheap and durable. Floating rotors have an alloy spider (centre) riveted to a steel braking track, which lets the steel track expand when hot without warping, because the rivets allow lateral movement. Floating rotors are better for sustained braking — alpine descents, shuttle runs — where heat buildup causes fixed rotors to warp and rub. For shorter UK trail rides, fixed rotors are perfectly adequate.
What should I check buying used?
Rotors wear down like pads, just more slowly. Most have a minimum thickness stamped on them — typically 1.5mm, starting at 1.8-2.0mm — so measure at the braking track with a vernier caliper. A worn rotor reduces pad contact area and braking power, and can eventually crack. Rotors are cheap relative to the consequences of one failing mid-descent, so treat the rotors on a used brake set with the same scrutiny as the calipers.