Brake Pads

Brake Pad Buying Guide

Brake pads are a consumable — they wear down with every ride and need replacing when the friction material gets below 1mm thick. Keeping fresh pads in your brakes is the simplest way to maintain consistent stopping power.

Organic vs Sintered

Organic pads (resin compound) bed in quickly, run quieter, and offer better modulation in dry conditions. They wear faster, especially in wet and muddy riding. Sintered pads (metallic compound) last significantly longer, cope better with heat on long descents, and maintain bite in wet conditions. The trade-off is more noise, longer bedding-in, and slightly harsher feel. Most trail riders in the UK are better served by sintered pads — they handle the year-round wet conditions better and last 2-3 times longer.

Pad Shape and Compatibility

Each brake caliper uses a specific pad shape — Shimano B-type pads don't fit Shimano D-type calipers, and neither fits SRAM. Always match the pad to your exact caliper model. Common shapes: Shimano B01S/B03S (2-piston Deore/SLX), Shimano D03S/D01S (4-piston XT/XTR/Saint), SRAM organic/metallic for Code/Guide/Level. Aftermarket brands like Galfer, SwissStop and Uberbike make pads in all standard shapes, often with different compound options than OEM.

When to Replace

If braking power has dropped, the levers pull closer to the bar than usual, or you can hear metal-on-metal scraping, the pads are done. Most pads have a wear indicator groove or line — when it's gone, replace them. Running pads down to the backing plate scores the rotor and can damage the caliper piston.

Bedding In New Pads

New pads need bedding in — 10-15 moderate stops from speed to transfer a layer of pad material onto the rotor. Don't drag the brakes or do emergency stops with fresh pads. Contaminated pads (oil, spray, disc brake cleaner residue) will squeal and lose power — if contamination happens, sand the pad surface and clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol, or just replace the pads. They're cheap.