BMX
Browse used BMX bikes, frames and parts for sale from riders across the UK. The category covers 20in freestyle and race machines, chromoly and aluminium frames, wheels and tyres, and the components that get swapped first — bars, cranks, pegs and drivers. It is aimed at park and street riders, gate racers, and parents buying up from a first 20in bike.
What counts as a BMX?
A BMX runs 20in wheels, one gear and no suspension, with a frame in 4130 chromoly for street and park riding or aluminium for gate racing. Freestyle gearing is usually 25/9 or 28/9 and race gearing around 44/16, and size is quoted as top tube length rather than seat tube — most adult frames fall between 20.5in and 21.25in.
Freestyle or race — which BMX suits me?
Freestyle bikes are heavier, run 2.3in tyres, take pegs and are built to survive repeated drops onto concrete, which is why complete bikes from brands like WeThePeople, Cult and Kink dominate the used listings. Race bikes are light aluminium with narrow tyres, a longer top tube and no peg mounts, and only make sense if you are riding a track with a start gate.
Is a BMX the same as a dirt jump bike?
No — a dirt jumper runs 26in or 27.5in wheels, a suspension fork and often a rear mech, which makes it quicker between jumps but far too tall for grinds or flatland tricks. Bikes with 16in or 18in wheels are kids bikes rather than small BMXs, and small-wheeled folding and shopper bikes sit under city.
What should I check on a second-hand BMX?
Check the head tube and downtube junction and the gusset for hairline cracks, then sight along the fork legs, because casing a landing bends them back and leaves the steering feeling slow. Spin the cranks backwards to hear whether the cassette driver pawls skip, look for flat spots and dents in the rims from grinds, and inspect the dropout slots, which oval out where pegs have been run.
How much should a used BMX cost?
Cheap completes are high-tensile steel with unsealed bearings and hold very little value second-hand, so full chromoly tubing, sealed bearings and a cassette hub are what carry the price. A hard-ridden bike with fresh wheels and tyres is often better value than a tidy budget complete; buy new if you want a frame warranty behind you.